It's been a long time since I left my comfort zone, most of the time I'm in automatic mode, doing activities out of inertia. Yesterday was different, I tried surfing for the first time, I had been waiting for that for a long time, it's finally summer and it was now or never. It surpassed all my expectations, it was like finding myself back in reality, living in the present moment, without distractions of any kind. It was terrifying to see how the waves came to me while I failed in the attempt to paddle to the bottom of the beach, feeling the movement of the waves was a unique experience, so great and terrifying at the same time, I felt my body paralyzed and my mind was plotting an endless number of catastrophic situations every minute, I had to be attentive every fraction of a second, I couldn't lose control of my mind and my body because that could end in a mild or severe tragedy, beyond whether or not I managed to catch a wave, I loved this experience because it made me feel more alive than ever, to value more the fact of how ephemeral we are. At first, when I found that this activity was beyond my physical and mental strength, I wanted to go back immediately, but I also thought that I should face my fears and demand more from myself. I embraced and accepted that I felt panic, I rested lying on the board at the bottom of the beach behind the waves, just feeling the movement of the water, admiring the intensity of the Pacific, the magnificence of the sea and everything it gives us, admiring the professional surfers and beginners as they tried to tame the waves and threw themselves into the water without any problem, seeing their faces of excitement and happiness when they achieved their goals. I only managed to catch two waves, the first was more violent than the second, but both were incredible, I was left wanting to repeat this experience even though the fear is still latent in my body, I must let it out completely. I want to continue experiencing more activities that will take my life to the extreme.