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Since acquiring a 2002 Hiace van earlier this year I have been going on some road trips to various back country locations here in the South Island New Zealand. On the very first such trip I went to the mouth of the Hurunui River and explored the beach and area around the river mouth- #1197914 That was near mid winter and more recently in Spring I decided to explore the upper reaches of the Hurunui where is fed by and flows through several high country lakes. The main Lake is Lake Sumner and nearby are Lake Taylor and Lake Katrine. Driving inland from the township of Hawarden the road turns to gravel and as we drive up it I was thinking this road is rather rutted and rough, but halfway up we encountered a grader working the surface and from there on it was a lot smoother. There was not a lot of traffic on the road but during holidays I suspect it gets quite busy. The road is ok until you get to the first lake- Lake Taylor and there is a DOC campsite there where you can camp beside the lake. But I wanted to see if the van could negotiate the road on further up to Lake Katrine- from Lake Taylor the Lake Katrine the road is described as 4wd only- but the van has good ground clearance and the weather was dry so we took our chances and continued on up the last 8 km to reach Lake Katrine which also has a campsite- but this campsite is free. Further to the free campsite I was attracted by the possibility to take my old Canadian canoe across Lake Katrine and via a canal up into the main Lake Lake, Lake Sumner. We made it to Lake Katrine but I would not recommend it in an ordinary car or in wet weather- you could easily get stuck, or worse.
Above- A relatively good section of the 4wd track from Lake Taylor to Lake Katrine. Lake Taylor on the background.
On arriving at Lake Katrine we set up camp and had a look around. There are multiple illegal huts built there on government conservation land by fishermen and boaties. The government wants to pull them down but so far they remain. Probably the cost of removing and the relative inaccessibility of the site protects them a bit. There are lots of camping areas near the lake and you want to choose one with some shelter from the wind and sun if you can. The wind can be cold and constant. When the wind is not blowing the sandflies come out to feed- on you. Next morning it was time to try to navigate across lake Katrine and through the canal that connects it to Lake Sumner. All went well and we found the canal entrance although it is not easy to see until you get fairly close to it. The canal is narrow- maybe 5 metres at most wide but enough for most small boats to pass. Once we got through the canal and onto Lake Sumner I headed west up the lake to where the Hurunui River enters the lake- wondering if it might be possible to go up the river in the canoe. Its maybe 2 km from the canal to the river. The canoe has an old Evinrude 2 hp outboard which makes travel easier than paddling- once you get the stubborn motor start... On reaching the river where it feeds into Lake Sumner it looked too shallow and swift for the motor and the boat to enter so I headed toward the shore of the Lake to go ashore for a rest and to have a look around.
The canoe has arrived at the head of Lake Sumner - photo looking north toward where the Hurunui river enters the lake. There were a surprising number of people around this area- some trampers and some fishermen trying for trout. The track from Lake Sumner to the Taramakau river is part of the Te Araroa trail that goes one end of New Zealand to the other. If you continue up river from Lake Sumner there are a series of DOC huts, some built in the 1930s and quite historic being some the the first government built public tramping huts and the track that links them eventually takes you over Harpers pass to the headwaters of the Taramakau river which flows down to the west coast. This route was taken by Maori seeking greenstone on the West Coast and also early European Settlers. In the 1870s the provincial government invest 3000 pounds in developing the road but it was super-ceded by the Lewis and Arthurs pass routes which today are the main highways to the west coast from Canterbury. Since then the road that once was over Harpers Pass has reverted to a walking track on most of the route from Lake Sumner to the Taramakau.
Having got to the top of Lake Sumner was enough for this first trip into the Lake Sumner Park- maybe next time I can go further and walk over the ancient Maori Greenstone trading route? Anyway the canoe trip back to Lake Katrine was ok and the next morning we drove back through the 4wd track to Lake Taylor - made it but it was pushing the limits of the old van and there were a few times that rock and Hiace underbelly met.
Spent one night camping at Lake Taylor- a cold westerly wind blowing across the lake onto the camping ground similar to at Lake Katrine but there is less shelter available at Lake Taylor. Just some flax.
164 sats \ 1 reply \ @Scoresby 7h
This sounds like a great tour around. I'm quite envious. Many of the pictures are without trees. But across the lake it looked quite forested. What are the forests like around there? And can you get up above the treeline via the track, or is it a hike?
I'd dearly love to spend some time walking around there. Someday.
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A lot of the land/forest up there used to be burned off periodically right up as far as the treeline to enable sheep and cattle grazing. IN the first photo looking back toward Lake Taylor you can see remnants of forest left in the valleys but most of the hill/mountainsides (especially sunny north facing ones) burned right up to the snowline. Such burning off is now more or less banned and farming is concentrated more in the river valleys and basins which are less prone to erosion. But from roughly Lake Sumner westward there is more forest (and less farming or residue of farming) and as you can see in the canoe photo the forest comes right down to the south facing side of lake Sumner. It does the same on Lake Katrine on the south facing (shady) side of the lake as they never bothered to or could burn that off. The Harpers pass tramping track which carries on west from Lake Sumner following the Hurunui up and then over the pass and down into the Hurunui catchment is increasingly forested as you go up in altitude and once over the other side I believe there is no farming until you met the road (Arthurs Pass) again. I think its about 3-5 days tramp from Lake Sumner the Arthurs Pass state highway and maybe half or more of this will be through bush or above the snow/treeline. The first day looks to be mostly along the Hurunui river where it is still grazed. Looking at the photo showing the canoe at head of lake Sumner most of the south facing north side of Lake Sumner looks to be forest all the way down. There is a track that goes through the hills you can see in this photo that starts at a road works camp on the Lewis Pass highway a few valleys north and I think nearly all of that route is forested- that is also part of the Te Araroa trail that traverses the full length of New Zealand...it can take 4-6 months to complete- maybe more!
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