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For larger on-chain payments I'd probably go with a node on a laptop. The node doesn't need to be running 24/7. Just re-sync whenever you want to make a payment. You could do that with public WiFi + Tor at a cafe or something like that.
For day-to-day payments (i.e. Lightning), what's wrong with the non-custodial mobile wallets like Phoenix, Breez and Blixt?