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Ok, it's my shitty cablemodem ISP. Works fine when I use firefox via Socks5 proxy. Probably fine from a VPN as well, but I don't have one to try.
I then launched, on the problematic cablemodem ISP connection: $ chromium --enable-ssl-debugging
Then looked at the chrome://net-export/ https://netlog-viewer.appspot.com/#events
And put a few of the relevant events into:
Hell if I know how to decipher / troubleshoot that, but thought I would share.
I'll remember to try a different network the next time something like this occurs.