THE SECRETS OF THE PIPELINE WAVE

Wave Characteristics: Pipeline's unique location and seafloor make it a special wave.

Swell Window Hawaii, situated in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, receives large swells. The north coast is best oriented for big winter swells from the north, with only westerly swells blocked by Kauai island.

The left-breaking wave is known as Pipeline, while the right is called Backdoor. Ideal swell for Pipeline has a medium to high period and a westerly direction (295º - 330º). For Backdoor, a medium period and direction between 315º and 355º is preferred.

Bathymetry Incoming swells encounter an area where depth abruptly decreases to 20-25 meters. The unique seafloor shape refracts wave energy directly towards the reef area.

Reef Sections The reef curves where depth suddenly drops to 18 meters.

Depending on wave size, waves break on one of 3 reefs before reaching shore: Third reef (100m offshore): Breaks only when waves exceed 6-8 meters.

Second reef: Breaks when waves surpass 4.5 meters, often creating enormous "caverns".

First reef: Most frequent break, works with head-high to triple overhead waves. Generates the famous tubes.

Pipe's Bottom Characteristics Pipeline is as perfect as it is dangerous.

The shallow volcanic rock bottom has caused many surfers to lose their lives or suffer serious injuries.

The documentary mentions Malik Joyeaux, a young Tahitian who died in December 2005 while surfing Pipeline. It describes how he was hit by the wave's lip and disappeared, only to be found 15 minutes later on Papukea beach.

Even experienced World Tour surfers have suffered Pipeline's power: Owen Wright: Head injury in 2015, out for a year Bede Durbridge: Broken hip Dusty Payne: Nearly lost his life after hitting his head on the reef Recent incidents include Joao Chianca's rescue and hospitalization after a bad fall at Backdoor, and injuries to Eimeo Czermark, Evan Geiselman, Koa Rothman, and Kai Lenny during this winter's North Shore season.