Lugano Trip Report
Inspired by the El Salvador Trip reports by @leo, I decided to write a report about my recent trip in Lugano, Switzerland. Lugano is advertised together with El Salvador as one of the biggest bitcoin circular economies. Let's see if it lives up to this promise!
Background
Lugano started the Plan B initiative in 2022 in cooperation with the company behind Tether, in order to promote bitcoin adoption in the city and has onboarded so far over 200 merchants. For more details see Lugano Plan B. In addition to promoting lightning the city has also created its own shitcoin, LVGA, which is pegged to the swiss frank (CHF). Furthermore, in order to incentivize adoption, it has developed an app MyLugano, with which it is possible to receive 10% cashback in LVGA on all crypto payments.
I temporary installed the MyLugano app to check it out, but deleted it again quickly, because it required KYC. Additionally it was quite buggy and I didn't like all the Web3 / NFT stuff. For the lightning payments I used the eNuts Cashu wallet and the Fedimint function of Mutiny wallet, which I both loaded with enough sats for the day.
All merchants can either be found on BTC Map or on the Lugano Plan B Merchant Map, which offers additional filters by category.
For receiving crypto payments all merchants use the same payment terminal developed by the city for this purpose. It is unfortunately filled with shitcoin distractions and for the lightning payment one has to navigate into the correct sub menu. In addition, one merchant confirmed that when you pay with bitcoin, the coins are actually converted to CHF and booked to the merchant's bank account the following days.
Tourist Perspective
From a tourist perspective Lugano is definitely worth a visit. With its beautiful lake it offers a relaxing atmosphere along the promenade. Furthermore one can take a funicular up the mountain and enjoy the view of the city. The city itself offers a mix of classic architecture and modern infrastructure. The Swiss-Italian cuisine features many interesting dishes. Furthermore it is possible to visit the nearby city of Bellinzona with its beautiful castles or the picturesque cities Locarno and Ascona, all within a train ride of 15-30 minutes. However, note that bitcoin merchant adoption in these cities is practically non existent.
Lightning Payment experiences
For the first payment I went to buy a bottle of water in a coffee shop. After the barista confirmed, that they accept lightning, she took out the payment terminal and started frantically searching for the bitcoin function. After a while she explained, that bitcoin payments are used very rarely and therefore she doesn't remember how to activate it. Luckily the shop was quite empty at that time and with my help we were able to find the bitcoin function in a sub menu. The path went something like "payment app / crypto / bitcoin". After typing in the amount in CHF, the terminal created a lightning invoice with a QR code, which I scanned with my phone. The payment itself went through smoothly.
The next stop was in a food store, where I bought a piece of pizza. I asked the person in the outer area of the store if they accepted bitcoin and in a very hesitant way he replied "yes it should be possible inside". The man at the cashier inside knew of the function but didn't know how to use it, so he had to call over another guy, who knew how to handle the terminal. This guy was confident in handling the payment. He mentioned that bitcoin payments are used by roughly one person per week while MyLugano payments are more frequent.
No trip is complete without a stop at McDonald's, so I went there next and chose a cheeseburger on the screen. I couldn't pay with lightning on the screen directly and instead I chose to pay later in cash. When I asked at the cashier to pay in bitcoin, the person knew immediately what to do and routinely activated the function in the terminal and handed it over to me. Again the payment went through smoothly.
Next I went to a pastry shop. Unfortunately at the same time a large group of people came in, which lead to a long lineup. The guy at the cashier didn't know how to initiate the payment with the terminal and therefore had to call over the girl, that was responsible for handing out the pastries. She was already quite stressed due to the lineup and quickly tapped a few different things on the terminal, which caused the whole device to freeze. She tried a few more things but wasn't able to unfreeze it again. So I ended up paying with credit card this time.
I decided to try one more pastry shop (I know, I eat too many sweets). Luckily this one was empty when I went in. After asking to pay in bitcoin the merchant hesitated initially but then agreed to it. Together we found the function in the terminal and I made it a point to memorize the path to the function for the future. The payment went again through smoothly.
The last stop was in restaurant, where we had the biggest payment of the day (around 150k sats). The waiter confirmed that they accept bitcoin and when it was time for the payment he came over with the terminal. He said that they started accepting payments with this terminal two weeks ago, since more and more people were asking for it (I didn't ask for more details, but I assume most asked for the MyLugano payment). He didn't know where to find the bitcoin function and I showed him the path, which I had memorized by now. The payment took a little longer this time (around 30 seconds) but again went through without issues.
Conclusion
Overall I had mixed feelings about the experience. It became clear that lightning use is much rarer than I expected. I am not sure what to think about the way adoption has been promoted with all the shitcoin distractions. On the one hand the 10% cashback incentivizes people to keep paying in crypto and therefore merchants to keep supporting the terminals. On the other the strong reliance on the fiat currency, either through MyLugano payments or through the automatic conversion of bitcoin payments to CHF stops the merchants from actually understanding and using bitcoin themselves. At least I am optimistic that lightning payments will continue to be supported by all onboarded merchants.